Bellisimo Bariloche!

Hola de Patagonia! In our last update, we were travelling in the southern Patagonia regions of Argentina and Chile, more specifically El Calafate, El Chalten, and Puerto Natales. You probably recall that our friend Noah was traveling with us and left at the end of November to head back to the states. At that time, Ajay and I flew from El Calafate due north to the town of Bariloche in the Lake District of northern Patagonia (about a 2 hour flight for reference sake). We spent a week in this area: four nights in an absolutely lovely bed and breakfast in town that felt more like a chalet in the Swiss Alps and three nights in an apartment on the Peninsula which I´ll describe at length in a bit. Ajay came down with a five-day cold as soon as we arrived in Bariloche and when he finally recovered, I got sick. All this to say, we weren´t moving at lightning speed during our time here, but we made the most of it for sure.

Bariloche is a town of about 90,000 people and is couched among the rugged peaks of the Andes mountains and the majestic lakes of the lake district. It is also the host of one of the largest and most popular ski resorts in Argentina, Cerro Cathedral. I would describe the entire area as a cross between Summit County, Colorado and the San Juan Islands, Washington with a dash of Lake Tahoe. The town was orinally settled by Europeans especially by the Swiss. Hence Bariloche was clearly modeled off of a village in the Alps. The main square has lovely stone buildings, and there are numerous chocolaterias throughout the town. The town is also fairly exclusive despite its remote location (nothing for miles in all directions) with incredible homes built on the hills in town with absolutely stunning views of the surrounding lakes and mountains. Quite a site!

The town of Bariloche sits on the beginning of Peninsula Llao Llao (which in Argetine Spanish is pronounced shou shou, like thou thou). The Peninsula (about 30 KM in length) is full of trees, mountains, lakes, cabins, restaurants, shops, etc. The finest hotel in all of Argentina, the Llao Llao Hotel, is located at the end of the Peninsula with a sheer rock mountain as its backdrop and lakes nearby...one could use the word ¨stunning¨ to describe. There are also a lots of hiking on the Peninsula, bike rides, boat rides, and chair lifts to see the numerous panoramas throughout the region. The town of Bariloche is fairly hoppin´ and busy; the Peninsula in contrast is altogether different...it gives much more of a country feeling surrounded by nature and is quiet. Hence, we spent time in both places, although our activities didn´t differ all that much despite staying in town versus on the Peninsula.

Ajay and I, despite our colds, wanted to explore this area on foot and by bike. We did some spectacular hikes, one to the top of the ski area, another to the top of Mount Llao Llao at the end of the peninsula. We also rented mountain bikes for a couple of days. One day we rode what is called the Circuito Chico (or the short circuit). It was a 20 mile loop around the Peninsula (the only main road really). It was quite challenging as there were many hills, but the views of the lakes and mountains was really incredible. (Oh how I longed for my road bike!). The next day we rode out to the end of a peninsula, off the peninsula...you get the picture :-)!...Lots of water and mountains!

Two notable things to mention during our time here...one were the restaurants Naan and Il Gabbiano. Naan was in someone´s house (about 6 tables) that overlooked the town and lakes of Bariloche with a gourmet menu and a view of the sunset...Il Gabbiano was near our lakeside apt. on the Peninsula and is known as the best restaurant in the area...(yes Italian food is the norm in Argentina). We had a greek salad, salmom sushi italian style and rigatoni with a lamb ragout sauce. We won´t ever forget those meals.

Secondly, we stayed in an apartment on the Peninsula in the lower level of an ultra modern home designed and built by Rodlfo and his partner. Our deck for the apartment was ON the lake. We woke up in the morning to a view that will be forever imprinted in our minds. Getting to the house was quite the adventure as well. Rodolfo was very careful to explain that in order to get up the rutted-out, steep, dirt driveway up to the main road, one had to put the car in first and go consistently speedy, while trying to maintain control of the car, not stall, and not shake the doors off the car. What an adventure!? Let´s just say it was better to have the mountain bikes while staying there...we ditched the rental car soonafter arriving.

Okay, I am at seven paragraphs, and we haven´t even gotten to Puerto Madryn yet which is one of the marine wildlife capitals of the world....Hmmm. Since I cannot let down my new whale, penguin and elephant seal friends, I will return and write more after you have all caught up and tell you all about them.

We miss you all. We only have two weeks left of travel so we are trying to savor every moment, but at the same time, we are getting excited to come home.

More soon,
Gina and Ajay